Tuesday, September 21, 2010

The Jewish Quarter

The gate of the synagogue courtyard
the gorgeous Great Synagogue of Budapest
tracery on the synagogue
just one example of the intricate detail carved upon the synagogue
headstones awaiting return to their original sites
the weeping willow within Raoul Wallenburg park
While at the Marco Polo, we had no idea we were staying in the Jewish Quarter.  The Great Synagogue of Budapest, in all its majesty, was only meters away!  No words or picture can do it proper justice .  It is a golden, filigreed compound that exudes a sacred gravity that even the most staunch atheist could not deny...also the second largest synagogue in the world. The tragic history of the place can still be felt. When Hitler established a ghetto for Hungarian Jews, many of them sought refuge at the synagogue. The deadly winter of '44-45 killed thousands of people and many of them are buried in the synagogue courtyard.
 The Jewish citizens of Budapest had at least one valuable ally during those nightmarish times, the Swedish diplomat, Raoul Wallenburg. From the summer to the winter of 1944, he issued Jewish citizens Swedish passports and housed them in buildings established as Swedish property.  In doing so, he saved thousands of doomed Hungarians. Sadly, he died while in Russian custody under mysterious circumstances. Here's to his memory.
  The Jewish people of Budapest have been able to glean a trace of beauty from the colossal tragedy of the Holocaust.  A park within the synagogue compound honoring Raoul Wallenburg contains a Holocaust memorial and there stands a beautiful metal sculpture.  It is a graceful weeping willow and etched upon each of its slender leaves is the name of a Hungarian victim of Hitler's hideous wrath.  
  
  

Marco Polo

from our window, across the courtyard
stairway to room 410
delightful street performers
me, kicking back, just before falling asleep

Szia!  We are actually in Budapest, Pearl of the Danube (Duna in Magyar).  My impressions continue to swing from absolute wonder to troubling confusion, but it is all part of the life-changing experience.
  We arrived in Pest on a sweaty, late summer night.  Our first home was the Hostel Marco Polo, in a room stuffed with three cots and our remaining belongings, which are still very few.  We decided it was best to fight the jet lag and get on with our second day as if we had not just exited a cramped Polish plane (LOT...no leg room, eighties era head phones, but food and drink on the half hour) after a 25 hour hop over the pond.  I was not accustomed to this late summer, urban heat.  The narrow, brick paved streets radiated so much of the sunlight and this, combined with humidity steaming off of the nearby Duna, made for a sauna-like experience.  But, never mind that.  It was my first day in this amazing Central European city.  I simply dressed ( or undressed, rather) for the occasion and headed out to explore with Boone and Aidan.  From the Marco Polo we walked down to the river front and sampled some of the street food.  Each of us ate a little pizza-like creation covered in local cheese and bits of ham (sonka).  Against our environmental convictions, we also carried around bottled water...we later realize that Budapest tap water is quite drinkable and gave up that particular vice.  Down at the river front, I was tickled pink to spot, marching down the promenade, a small group of performers, wearing silly masks and hats, one guy juggling, and two riding unicycles  with casual ease.  This reminded me of home, Portland, Oregon, where delightful absurdity abounds.  The pedestrian and bike friendly Chain Bridge was within walking distance, so we crossed the river into Buda, to the base of Castle Hill. By this time the heat, jet lag, and our full bellies were conspiring against our will to stay awake and we headed back over the bridge to the Marco Polo for an afternoon snooze.  It just couldn't be helped. x
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12:20:00 AMby leslie