Tuesday, June 19, 2012

What The Hell Do YOU Do



  I love my tutoring sessions with Zoli and Eszter. They are roughly my age, smart, thoughtful, and fairly hip. Our sessions consist of discussing a different topic every meeting. I come up with something and write down about twenty questions about that topic for them to answer. Yes, I get paid to play twenty questions.
  It's not easy for an American to "get in" with a crowd of Hungarians. Fair weather friendships do not fly here and that word, "friend" carries a hell of a lot more weight than it does in the facebookly world of mass produced, fast food  American acquaintances.
  We talked about the term "breaking the ice" when it comes to conversation with people we have just met. Zoli chuckled when he heard this term. He likes it, it fits. I asked both of them a couple of ice breakers... what's your favorite book? Seen any good movies lately? Can you recommend a good restaurant? How often to you ride public transortation without a pass?
  I eventually asked which subjects are taboo in casual conversation. The usual subjects were mentioned, religion, age, politics, all of which come up despite their sensitivity. I asked, "What is the first thing you might say to someone when you first meet them, if you want to get a conversation going?" Both Zoli and Eszter admit to feeling uncomfortable with meeting new people in social (as opposed to work) situations.
  Eszter answered, "It's usually the weather. Always the weather."
   I told them that in the U.S., many people will ask where you are from. This makes sense in a big country like the U.S.A. where people shuffle around from state to state. As Zoli said, in Hungary, "this is not so important. We are from the same place."
  I then asked them, "How would you feel if a new acquaintance asked you what your job is? Or, more specifically, 'What do you do?'  Is that appropriate? In the U.S. that is a very common first question."
  Without hesitation, Zoli said, "No. That would be a very inconsiderate question. Too personal and...and..." Zoli snapped his fingers lightly as he tried to come up with the right word.
"Invasive?" I offered.
"Yes..that's right," he answered.  Eszter agreed.
  The discussion then turned to that question and why it is inappropriate. I admitted to them as I admit to you now that I have always hated that question. I get slightly angry whenever I am asked. I feel as if it is a challenge, or a request that I justify my existence on this earth. In other words, how much are you worth? Your answer to this question determines how I will think of you, talk to you, treat you after this first meeting.
  Call them pessimistic, call them dour, but you cannot call Hungarians insincere or shallow. They are master bullshit detectors and do not suffer phony fools. I love this about the Hungarian people. I discover on an almost daily basis that I have more in common with them than I know.
  Next time someone asks me what I do, I will say that I do a lot of things. I garden, read, cook, bake, write, ride my bike, love my family (the fuzzy ones as well as the human ones). Sometimes I eat too much, sometimes I dance around my apartment when I'm alone.
  Having said this, I do hope to find gainful employment upon my return, but I never want whatever that is define me as a human being. Let it be known that I and everyone else on this earth are more than their goddamned net worth or formal education. As Americans, we should have learned by now that tax bracket does not determine intelligence, kindness, goodness, or personal value. Go ahead and be proud of your achievements, but remember that you can't take it with you and that it's the kind of person you are that will make the lasting impressions. Humanity over that funky dollar bill. The Hungarians know this and have for a long time.



  

Monday, June 18, 2012

Representing




  Hungary, as she stands now, is a very conservative country. Some of this conservatism is downright backassward, really, so when events like the one pictured above take place, I feel the need to make it known, celebrate a little bit.
  This is a photo of an anti-racism, anti-homophobia, anti-Horthy cult demonstration that took place yesterday. It was taken by a young photographer whose mission is to document the history of his city.

To read about Orpheush and his photography, follow these links:
http://orpheush.tumblr.com/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/orpheush

https://www.facebook.com/Orpheushphoto/info

Just what is the Horthy cult? The term refers to the regained popularity of Horthy Miklós Admiral, among the extreme right wing here in Hungary.  Horthy served in the Austro-Hungarian navy and also served as regent of Hungary during WWII. It was he who allied with the Nazis in an attempt to regain what Hungary had lost in the Treaty of Trianon. He led a period of White Terror in Hungary at that time and was an open anti-Semite. Recently, a few Hungarian villages have been erecting statues of Horthy Miklós in heroic memoriam.
  You can read more about this here : http://www.spiegel.de/international/europe/right-wing-extremists-cultivate-horthy-cult-in-hungary-a-836526.html

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Castles Made of Sand


  It's the beginning of the end of our time in Budapest.  Today, I said goodbye to my great friend Debra, the one person (aside from my boyz), who has been a beloved constant for the past two years. I really hate saying goodbye. I'm no good at it, face to face, feel awkward and a bit silly. Inevitably, the reality hits me after the fact and I have myself a good cry.
  So I did that today, just a little while ago. After a teary purge I'm left feeling philosophical and this evening's rumination was about the transitory nature of damn near everything, how you can't live a static life and expect to actually live as opposed to merely existing. Pain comes with risk taking, especially when it comes to friendships. We take a risk, open up to a person, actually connect with them, begin to love them, and they become a true friend. When you hit the jackpot of a true, solid friendship, it's always worth the pain of leaving that friend one day or having that friend leave you.
  The great friendship still exists even when the void of a person's absence seems capable of swallowing you whole. Each time I have left a place, I've cried from the pain of that void. It's good...it means I'm alive and capable of love. And the friendships are still there....all of those dear people I'm so happy to know and adore, they are still out there in the world and that alone makes me feel better.
  If there's one life lesson that has been driven home during my time in Hungary, it has been that nothing lasts and that things change because they must. Static deadens and kills. It's best to brace oneself for for the pain that goes with the gain, learn to like it even.
  The classic Jimi Hendrix tune filled my head during my latest bout with that pain. Its message is more Hungarian than American and it is oddly comforting. Brace yourself for the change, become friends with the pain because everything melts into the sea, eventually.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBmr97VIVQc





Friday, June 15, 2012

Honeyed Evening


  It's very humid in Budapest now. Last week's thunderstorms are still with us, in the air. Somewhere, a night blooming shrub or tree is releasing its perfume and the evening heavy evening air smells like honey. Probably one of the plants in the garden bar downstairs. A thick schmear of honey. I'm hoping some of it will glide in through the big, open windows.