pro Fidesz rally at Országház
"I wouldn't be surprised if something bad happens on March 15," stated Magdi, one of Boone's colleagues, with more than a hint of grim Hungarian resignation.
After hearing that, and knowing how delicate the political situation is here in Hungary, I rushed to get my family registered with the U.S. embassy, just in case. No, we did not do that upon our initial arrival in Hungary. Yes, I know, we are terrible procrastinators.
As I said, and in case you haven't heard, we are living in Budapest as Hungary itself languishes at a crossroads, politically and economically, asking itself, do we want to be part of the European Union? Can we identify as Hungarian and European at the same time? Do we need or want financial assistance from the Union and the IMF? If we disagree with the status quo in our country, what can we do about it, how do we make our voices heard?
March 15 is a national holiday that belongs to every Hungarian. Its commemoration is particularly relevant of late. March 15 marks the day when, in 1848, the Hungarians sought independence from the Habsburg monarchy, seeking democracy, fair tax burden, and basic civil rights. Like most revolutions, the reasons for and beginnings of this one were complicated and the oppressor was all powerful.
Many Hungarians today most likely see too many uncomfortable similarities between the causes of the 1848 revolution and what is taking place under the government of Orbán Viktor today.
Given the Hungarian tendency to speak one's mind openly and honestly, combined with the history of revolution in the country (among numerous other things), Magdi's observation did not seem so outrageous. The radical right wing party Jobbik and its faithful have been known to cause a kerfuffle or two in the countryside, terrifying the Roma population with its nationalistic bravado. There had been a few demonstrations already this year and last, mainly against Fidesz and its flagrant use of the 2/3 majority it enjoys in Parliament as a way of securing its ideology and intentions for this country. This has been all over the international news so I will spare you my own overview which, interpreted via my American prespective, would not, I fear, be free of my own personal, political convictions. My views do have a way of sneaking into my writing, nonetheless. Surely a government which is quick to gerrymander voting districts in its favor, hastily rewrite the constitition, and silence radio stations known to be critical of the regime, all in the name of erasing any trace of communism, would be troublesome to any believer in democracy, Hungarian or not.
This year, March 15 was a gorgeous day, sunny, warm, cheerful. The Nicholsons were not going to stay inside. So, while Aidan and his good pal Mercede wandered around Buda and Pest, Boone and I headed down to Parliament, on our way to the Erzsébet bridge. Országház served as setting for a pro-Fidesz demonstration. Armed with our passports and loads of curiosity, we set out.
televised speaker at pro-Fidesz rally
I think it is only fair to mention that the organizers of the pro-Fidesz "peace" rally are not peaceful folks at all. Zsolt Bayer, out and proud anti-Semite and friend of Orbán, has been quoted as spewing hateful gems such as, "Anyone who runs over a Gypsy child in this country, would be best not think of stopping. If you run over a Gypsy, just step on the gas pedal." and "...the mere existence of Jewish journalists in Budapest is grounds enough for our anti-Semitism." Fellow Orbán associate, András Bencsik, has said equally offensive, anti-Semitic things and is a huge fan of the Russian autocrat, Vladimir Putin. Read more about the organizers of this rally online at Hungarian Spectrum, March 17, 2012 http://esbalogh.typepad.com/.
And yet the rally was peaceful. The crowd was dense and multitudinous. From the many giant speakers we heard the echo of speeches in proud and determined Hungarian, the words "szabadság" (freedom) "magyarország" (Hungary) and "kommunista"(self-explanatory) most prominent (and certainly ironic) to our non-fluent ears. Boone and I waded through, overcoming the slight claustrophobia that goes with being part of a crowd that seems to have no end. We escaped through the arches of the Museum of Ethnography, relieved that we were no longer part of the crowd.
conspiracy theories alive and well at the Fidesz rally
Our next stop was the counter demonstration, near the Pest side of the Erzsébet bridge, organized by Milla (short for the organization One Million for the Freedom of Press in Hungary). A proactive Fidesz did its best to prevent this rally by booking all possible demonstration sites prior to March 15. Milla succeeded in the end and the crowd on the bridge, as well as the one spilling into Ferenciek Tere, was teeming and abuzz. The local greens (LMP) were out gathering signatures for their employment initiative , a young rep from the Roma NGO (non-governmental organization) gave a speech, as did teacher's representatives and even folks from the local LGBT community. Of course, not many events this big, with so many different NGOs, play out without a few snags. You can read about the squabbles among the NGOs here http://www.eurotrib.com/story/2012/3/15/165747/522.
a clumsy but humorous anti-Orbán sign, referring to the visiting conservative Polish politicians, in Budapest to support Fidesz
the Milla crowd, looking down Rákóczi ut
local rastas were ready to celebrate the 15th with some riddim
this sign reads something like, "Has Viktor seen a doctor already?" I could be very wrong.....
peaceful punk
Predictably, Jobbik used March 15 for its own ends, gathering a smallish crowd of perhaps 1000 to shout about the evils of the EU, the Jews, liberals, homosexuals, and Roma. Speakers fired up their crowd with its nationalistic platitudes. On this day, the police, clad in riot gear, wisely cordoned off the Jobbik crowd, ready for things to take an ugly turn. Thankfully, there was no violence, only violence in words, as the right-wing crowd shouted, "dirty Jews" to the bigger crowd, who responded with "Nazi! Nazi!" I felt proud of the Milla demonstrators for shouting down the racist rantings, especially one young woman who, red-faced and voice hoarse, kept responding on her own to everything the Jobbik speaker said.
cops mobilizing as the crowds exchange epithets...the banner says "No EU"
Jobbik shouting their nasty ideology, surrounded by riot police
The crowd at the Milla demo seemed bigger to me, but I admit my perception could have been wishful thinking. This rally was indeed more diverse, more loose, easier to navigate then the tight Fidesz rally. Hungry, tired, and wanting to meet up with Aidan and Mercede, we hopped the metro back home, both of us really glad we attended both rallies, happy that nothing physically violent had taken place.
As I said, this holiday is a day for all Hungarians, regardless of their political leanings, and they each interpret the actions in 1848 accordingly. Everyone wore their Hungarian cockades, nobody held a monopoly in their love for their country. The poets of 1848 would have been amazed to see this...and I wonder how the likes of Petőfi Sándor or Arany János, who expressed sympathy and solidarity with Hungarian Jews would have felt about Jobbik's ravings. I can't help but think these heroes of 1848 would have recoiled at the thought of their tribulations being co-opted by such a regressive and hateful group.
view from Rákóczi ut toward the bridge
