oh!!! I can't sleep!
My dear friend Dean Volker left town a couple of weeks ago after a lovely visit. I miss him and, as usual, he left behind some fantastic music and magazines as well as some brand new knowledge.
Dean is the kind of tourist that does his homework, really researches a place and gets to know it, indirectly, as best he can. I'm not sure if, during his stateside research, he came across his knowledge of romkocsmak, or ruin pubs, but I am quite sure I may never have been introduced to this phenomenon, which is distinctly "Budapesti", had it not been for Dean's pre-voyage curiosity.
The concept behind the ruin pub is simple as well as being a squatter's/DIY enthusiast's wet dream. At the turn of the 21st century, many of the derelict buildings inspired the creation of ad hoc gathering spaces, overflowing with art, ideas, beer, booze and loud music. These buildings were furnished with cast off furniture and decoration and henceforth, became known as ruin pubs.
Szimpla Kertmozi
Romkocsmak represent the evolution of the speak easy...sometime after the rave phenomenon started getting weary, romkocsmak began appearing and disappearing all over Budapest. A sort of hundreth monkey effect took over, devoid of rules and how-tos. Some romkocsmak are seasonal, some change venue from time to time, some remain within the buildings in which they began. Since necessity is the mother of invention, these ruin pubs maintain a DIY aesthetic, the kind that calls for clever themes and commentary when establishing the mood of a place.
So far, in Budapest, I've only been to Szimpla Kertmozi (Simple Garden) and then only for an hour or so. It was Saturday night and the buildings nooks and crannies were filled with conversationalists, seductors, and thrill seekers. We strolled a pass or two around the third floor foyer, spied an empty table, and quickly nabbed it before anyone else did.
third floor, Szimpla Kertmozi
um.... a little irony
Dean and Esther, fun and fellowship
A few weeks ago, my family and I took the train down to Pécs, to enjoy the mediterranean climate and ogle the architechture left by the Turks. We loved the mid-sized college town for many reasons, but were particularly charmed by Cool Tour Café, a charming little ruin pub just off the cobblestone promenade. The aesthetic of Cool Tour was much less frenetic, much more soothing (at least during the day), and when we were there, we got to watch this work in progress...folks were adding space to the outside bar as well as doing a bit of landscaping.
soothing colors, comfy but spare furnishings
Cool Tour al fresco bar
outside seating, Cool Tour
colorful corner at the Cool Tour
Boone, enjoying feher bor at Cool Tour
The concept of ruin bars is one that I think could go over quite well in certain parts of the United States, namely the West Coast, specifically Portland, San Francisco, Seattle and most college towns tucked in between the urban areas. Dean brought up the point that property costs as well as stringent building code regulations might doom the possibility of any ruin pub phenomena in the U.S. Which is too bad....the romkocsma represent the kind of individualism and self- sufficiency the country supposedly regales. Of course money would be the main obstacle to something like the ruin pubs flourishing....and they say monetary incentive is the best way to get ideas flowing. Bullshit. Exibit A: the romkocsma of Budapest, a fairly poor city still trying to throw off the shade of the Iron Curtain. x
